— GUIDE · COSTALEGRE · JALISCO, MEXICO

What is the Costalegre?
A guide to Mexico’s quietest coast

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The Casa Papelillo Guides

Updated October 2026 · 6 min read · By Casa Papelillo

The Costalegre, also written Costa Alegre (“happy coast”), is the stretch of Pacific coast in Jalisco, Mexico, between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. It has jungle, headlands and long, empty beaches, with Careyes at its centre. It has no resort strip and no commercial airport of its own, which is why it stays quiet.

330 km

Of Pacific coast between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo

1968

The year Careyes was founded

UNESCO

Chamela–Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve, inland

Contents

1. What is the Costalegre, and where is it?

The Costalegre runs about 330 kilometres along the Pacific, from Cabo Corrientes south of Puerto Vallarta to Barra de Navidad near the Colima border. Highway 200 links the whole coast. Jalisco’s state government has promoted it under that name since the 1990s.

There is no single town here. The coast is a chain of fishing villages, small bays and private estates: Chamela, Careyes, Tenacatita, Barra de Navidad and Melaque among them. Much of the land between them is tropical dry forest, protected or simply undeveloped.

2. What is Careyes?

Careyes is the best-known place on the Costalegre: a private coastal community founded in 1968 by the Italian banker Gian Franco Brignone. Its palapa-roofed houses, saturated colours and clifftop “castles” created a style of architecture of its own. Careyes is at kilometre 53.5 on Highway 200.

Today it has a beach club at Playa Rosa, a polo club, galleries and the Copa del Sol, a monumental art installation over the sea. Casa Papelillo is ten minutes north, on Chamela Bay, and was designed by the AD100 architect Alex Pössenbacher in the same language.

3. What are the best beaches on the Costalegre?

The Costalegre has dozens of beaches, many reached only by private road or by boat. These are the ones guests ask about most:

  • Playa Negra, Playa Negritos and Playa La Virgencita on Chamela Bay. Casa Papelillo guests have private access to all three, on reservation (fees may apply).
  • Xametla, a fourth beach on Chamela Bay, also reachable by public road.
  • Playa Rosa, the Careyes beach club, with calm water and water sports.
  • Careyitos, a quiet cove in Careyes, good for a sunset walk.
  • Playa Teopa, a 3.5-kilometre wild beach south of Careyes, with a sea-turtle sanctuary.
  • Tenacatita Bay, one of the largest bays on Mexico’s Pacific coast, with several beaches and calm swimming.

4. What are the best things to do on the Costalegre?

Most of the Costalegre’s appeal is the land and the sea:

  • Humpback whales, November to February. You can watch from the terraces or go out with a licensed captain. See our whale-watching guide.
  • Sea turtles nest and hatch from July to December, with the sanctuary at Playa Teopa.
  • Polo in Careyes, November to April.
  • Festivals, including Ondalinda x Careyes in November and the ArteCareyes Film & Arts Festival.
  • Snorkelling, surfing, paddleboarding and boat trips around Chamela Bay. See our experiences.

Inland is the Chamela–Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve: 13,142 hectares of tropical dry forest, named a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2006. The National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) has run a research station there since 1971. The reserve shelters jaguars, pumas and ocelots. Casa Papelillo sits on its edge.

Stay on the Costalegre: Casa Papelillo sleeps 12, fully staffed, on Chamela Bay.

5. Where should you stay on the Costalegre: villa, hotel or resort?

There are three kinds of stay on this coast, and they suit different trips.

Staffed private villaBoutique hotelLarge estate resort
Best forFamilies and groups of friends, celebrationsCouples, short staysCouples and families wanting resort facilities
PrivacyThe whole house is yoursShared with other guestsShared, across a large estate
ServiceYour own staff: butler, chef, housekeepersHotel staffHotel staff
MealsPrivate chef, served when and where you wantRestaurantSeveral restaurants
ExampleCasa Papelillo: 12 guests, staff of four, on Chamela BaySmall hotels in Careyes and TenacatitaEstate resorts near Careyes

For a group, a staffed villa usually works out simpler than several hotel rooms: one booking, one kitchen, one table, and a house that runs around your days. See the villa and its five suites.

6. How do you get to the Costalegre?

Fly into Manzanillo (ZLO), the closest airport, about 1.5 to 2 hours’ drive from Casa Papelillo. Or fly into Puerto Vallarta (PVR), which has the most flights, about 2.5 to 3 hours north. Private aircraft can use the Chamela airstrip (CHM31), minutes from the villa, or Costalegre Airport at Chalacatepec (COJ), about 40 minutes away. We recommend a four-wheel-drive rental car and driving in daylight. Full details are in our guide on how to get to Careyes.

Costalegre FAQ

Yes. Both names refer to the same stretch of Jalisco’s Pacific coast between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. “Costalegre” is the official name used by the state of Jalisco. “Costa Alegre”, meaning “happy coast”, is the older two-word spelling.

The Costalegre begins just south of Puerto Vallarta, but its centre is further away. Careyes and Chamela Bay are about 2.5 to 3 hours’ drive south of Puerto Vallarta airport on Highway 200. Manzanillo airport is closer, at about 1.5 to 2 hours.

The Costalegre is a quiet, rural stretch of coast, with small fishing villages and private estates that have hosted international visitors and homeowners for over 50 years. Crime affecting tourists is rare. Use common-sense precautions, such as driving Highway 200 in daylight. Read our Costalegre safety guide and our FAQ.

November to April is the dry season, with warm, clear days, humpback whales offshore (November to February) and polo in Careyes. May to October is green, hot and quieter, and sea turtles nest from July to December. The busiest weeks are Christmas, Chinese New Year, Easter and Ondalinda week. For a month-by-month view, see our guide to the best time to visit.

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